This season’s lineup had a big play on pleats and succulent colors.
“For this collection titled ‘Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter,’ we reflected on our original technology of garment pleating to explore, through a process of refinement, what it is that makes us who we are, designing and making one-of-a-kind garments for everyday life,” explained the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team.
“The garment-pleating technology is the foundation of the brand’s design and making, where a garment is first cut and sewn, and then pleated, which is different from the conventional way of making a garment from pre-pleated fabrics,” it continued.
To drive this home, Homme Plissé’s show opened with a huge swath of white pleated paper being unrolled along the length of a sweeping room in Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Within the material’s double layering were flat pleated shirts, which were then expanded and put onto models. Overhead, a rainbow of such garments hung.
This strong collection rich in simple, often layered, silhouettes including skirts, shorts, jackets and trousers, burst with succulent colors nodding to nature like ruby red, banana yellow and pea green. New hues are to be launched on a monthly basis, along with each monthly delivery of merchandise.
As is tradition for Homme Plissé, pleats — in all sizes — were manifold. “For this season, we explored different ways of pleating garments,” the design team said.
The “Horizon” series had horizontally pleated pieces, while the “Edge Ensemble” selection featured wide accordion pleats.
Asymmetric looks abounded, especially in skirts. One in gray-blue came paired with a matching sleeveless shirt.
Geometric shapes, in the likes of orange, red and yellow, on tunics or trousers, are meant to connote natural scenes, such as mountains and wind.
Some jackets looked virtually ready to take off, gleaning inspiration from aircraft wings and birds. Here, a back vent was cut into the fabric, to help it waft. Giving another aerodynamic effect were certain shirts with shoulders fashioned with a cape-like design.
That was the top, and to cover toes, Homme Plissé crafted Like Loafers, taking a cue from formalwear but using stretch material for a more loungy, everyday aspect.
