John Galliano successfully fused elements of both male and female fashion in his latest spring collection, creating a harmonious union on the runway. The designer showcased his exceptional talent in incorporating diverse styles and creating a truly unique and captivating aesthetic.
The ethereal emerald silhouette of an ocean liner flickering intermittently within the confines of Maison Margiela’s headquarters established the backdrop for a prelude to the tales of Count and Hen, the central figures in “Cinema Inferno.”
The delicate melodies produced by the pairing of a piano and cello while performing the iconic “Sonata Pathétique” composed by Ludwig van Beethoven evokes strong associations with HBO’s acclaimed television series “Succession,” subtly hinting at the overarching theme of the season: inheritance and legacy.
On the upper level, the runway spectacle depicted the parents of the characters, encountering each other for the initial occasion as they embarked on their journey to America.
“In accordance with the provided description, one individual is the offspring of a financially deprived aristocratic lineage, while the other person originates from a bourgeoisie industrial background.”
Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano presented a poignant narrative, executed with impeccable precision. This collection stood out amidst a season of hyper-realistic propositions, drawing inspiration from the resolute atmosphere of a voyage, its diverse characters, and the cargo brimming with trunks filled with garments that will eventually find their way into the capable hands of future generations.
The characters are initially dressed in a refined manner, donning attire from the early 20th century, as they embark on a fateful convergence. The prevailing subdued color scheme conveys a sense of practicality and rationality, rather than romantic entanglements.
Over time, there was a gradual relaxation in the manner of dressing. Fabrics and folds were carefully arranged to imitate the appearance of garments that had been packed for a prolonged period. Certain sections of a skirt’s hemline were secured with adhesive tape, or portions of a bustier were either trimmed or folded down, giving the impression of personalized adjustments made on the fly. As a result, there emerged a blurring of traditional gender-specific attire, as various elements were repurposed and incorporated into diverse fashion ensembles.
During the conclusion of their journey through the collection of spring attire, he is adorned in culottes featuring exceptionally wide folded hems, resembling a ruffled skort. Meanwhile, she is garbed in a modest cape dress, indicating a mutual understanding.
The garments were worn in an unconcerned manner by models of various genders. Regardless of their assigned gender, each model carried themselves differently — delicately and refined for a feminine essence, reserved and hunched for a masculine interpretation. This approach signaled a defiance of conventional norms in fashion. Maison Margiela and Galliano have embraced this path for quite some time, resulting in remarkable outcomes.
Creative Director: John Galliano
Artistic Image Director: Alexis Roche
Styling: Olivier Rizzo
Make Up: Dame Pat Mcgrath
Hair: Eugene Souleiman
Casting: Jess Hallett
Sound design, production and edits : Jeremy Healy with Tom Linden and Cheekypaul
Music supervision : Jill Thompson for Dexnfx and Richard Ford for Anger Music
Movement director: Pat Boguslawski
Live Music Performance by Pianist Gael Rakotondrabe and Cellist Paul Colomb