“Theme for Great Cities” by Simple Minds has been identified as one of Dries van Noten’s preferred tracks from the 1980s. This majestic instrumental piece, skillfully elongated by 2manydjs to heighten its dramatic impact, served as an outstanding soundtrack for the designer’s autumn menswear presentation. The details are available here.
The theme chosen for the collection was “Unexpected Elegance,” encompassing Van Noten’s unique blend of contrasting fabrics, volumes, and attitudes. This collection is versatile and suitable for wearing in any urban setting.
The notable Van Noten long ago abandoned his evocative runway installations, now favoring nondescript parking garages or buildings under renovation, stripped to the bare concrete.
He selected the latter on Thursday evening and allowed the attire to convey the message.
“An elegant look for young guys, but combining things sometimes in a rather strange way,” is how the designer described his intention backstage.
There were peculiarities, particularly in the attire: chunky ribbed-knit sweaters adorned with an arched side zip were worn in an unconventional manner — one sleeve occupied, while the other encircled the neck like a scarf. Ribbed knit elements reappeared as broad cuffs on a variety of coats.
The denim shirts were gathered and secured with large safety pins, adding a punk-inspired accent, while a camel polo shirt extended to the fingertips.
Van Noten’s range of outerwear was quite diverse, encompassing the most slender and narrow topcoats to more ample coats crafted from substantial wools or robust canvas. Each exuded an air of sophisticated elegance, reflecting the designer’s extensive design repertoire and impressive tailoring expertise.
Cargo pants and full-legged styles in crinkled or technical nylons subdued the formality of the tailored jackets and coats, just as the very flat, sock-like dress shoes, which are gaining traction this European season, did.
“Every guy is different and every guy needs a different type of pants, and that’s what we tried to show,” the designer shrugged backstage when asked about the proportions.
Striking yet never jarring, Van Noten demonstrates a remarkable ability to blend colors and prints, while harmonizing trouser volumes with a diverse range of tailored outerwear. This warrants in-depth examination for those seeking to embrace impeccable style.
Creative Director: Dries Van Noten
Styling: @Nancy_Rohde
Make-up: @IngeGrognard
Hair: @GaryGillHair
Casting: @Piergiorgio
Production: @VillaEugenie
Music: Music by @SoulwaxOfficial “Theme for great cities” – @SimpleMindsMusic
Movie: Offline
