At Ann Demeulemeester, the spirit of dark romanticism continues to evolve under the creative direction of Stefano Gallici, who presented a deeply personal Fall/Winter 2026 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Titled Dear Night Thoughts, the show unfolded like a diary entry—intimate, rebellious, and infused with the poetic energy that has always defined the house.
Set inside the historic Couvent des Cordeliers, the runway was cloaked in darkness, creating a moody, nocturnal atmosphere enhanced by a live performance from the musical duo Beguiling Junior. The soundtrack and setting framed a collection that felt like wandering through the mind of a young artist at night—raw, romantic, and slightly undone.
A Youthful Vision of the House
Since taking over the brand in 2023, Gallici has been reshaping the legacy of Ann Demeulemeester for a new generation. His approach isn’t nostalgic; instead, it invites a new creative community to connect with the label’s rebellious poetry and rock-and-roll soul.
The Fall/Winter 2026 lineup reflected this philosophy. Gallici fused multiple influences—from 19th-century dress to music-festival style and collegiate uniforms—into a wardrobe that looked as if it had been lived in, altered, and reimagined by its wearer.
Distressed tailoring played a central role. Denim with shredded gold braids, varsity sweaters transformed into dresses, and uniform trousers cut into shorts revealed pleated linings beneath. Each piece carried the signature Demeulemeester tension between structure and disarray.
Romantic Rebellion
The collection stayed loyal to the house’s poetic DNA. Ruffled shirts spilled from cuffs and collars, lace underskirts peeked from beneath layered silhouettes, and bias-cut chiffon dresses drifted alongside rugged biker jackets and worn leather.
Gallici’s fascination with literature also surfaced throughout the collection. References to rebellious poet Arthur Rimbaud appeared on printed T-shirts and visual motifs, reinforcing the designer’s ongoing dialogue between fashion, music, and art.
Rock Icons and Cultural Energy
True to the brand’s musical heritage, the show blurred the line between runway and rock stage. Legendary guitarist Jimmy Page was spotted in the front row, while punk icon Billy Idol appeared on the runway wearing a dramatic fringed leather cape.
The casting reinforced the idea of community that Gallici hopes to build around the label—a collective of musicians, artists, and creative spirits who embody the rebellious elegance of the house.
The Evolution of Dark Romanticism
Ann Demeulemeester has always lived at the intersection of poetry and rebellion. With Fall/Winter 2026, Stefano Gallici continues to reinterpret that legacy for a younger generation.
The result is a collection that feels raw yet sophisticated: lace against leather, uniform against romance, order against beautiful disorder. In Gallici’s hands, the brand becomes less about nostalgia and more about projection—an evolving universe where fashion, music, and literature collide.
For those who live between midnight thoughts and morning light, Ann Demeulemeester’s world remains as compelling as ever.
Styling @elodiedavid
Casting @ben_grimes_casting
Hair @anthonyturnerhair@schwarzkopfpro@schwarzkopf
Make-up @ingegrognard@wonderskin
Nails @glitterbels@janelgrantnails
Production @urbanproductionevents
Photography @nowfashion
