The Datejust is one of the most recognisable and classic wristwatches that Rolex has ever released. It has seen few changes to its basic groundbreaking design and remains a testament to the brand’s dedication to quality. With styles that span from ultra-modern to classic and vintage, there is a Datejust to suit almost every preference. It has pioneered numerous advancements and improvements to time-keeping devices, yet it is also among the simplest watches to read the time on. 

The arrival of the Rolex Datejust

The Datejust was a revolutionary timepiece when released in 1945. It was the first watch to display the date automatically and the first Rolex to have a self-contained dial. It was considered an artisanal masterpiece due to its ability to automatically change the date at midnight in a few thousandths of a second. This was made feasible by a specially made mechanism that determined the 31 possible positions for the date wheel using a ‘cog’ and ‘finger’. This unique mechanism – a major feat in micro-engineering, designed and patented by Rolex – functions without ever interfering with the timekeeping process. Its release caused a stir among watch enthusiasts as it marked the debut of the first self-winding waterproof wristwatch to display the date on its dial, now a major feature on numerous watches around the world.

The first Datejust model was made in 18k yellow gold, and it was the first water-resistant watch that could also keep accurate time. In the early years, it was produced in a wide range of models and featured a variety of dial, bezel, metal, and bracelet options. Some of these early Datejust pieces are especially eye-catching because of the complex and ornate designs on their dials.

Design elements of the Rolex Datejust  

One of the later Datejust models (released in 2009) was the Datejust II. It has an increased size of 41mm and offers an updated design that still manages to keep the classic feel of the original Datejust. A number of dials and new features such as the ‘Parachrom hairspring’ have been added to some models. Other practical updates have included replacing the acrylic crystal watch face with one made of sapphire crystal, enhancing durability, and reducing the risk of scratches. The Cyclops magnifying lens, positioned above the glass, has improved the legibility of the date without compromising the classic look of the wristwatch. 

On occasion, the Datejust has strayed from its classic, simple and elegant design. For example, a ‘Thunderbird’ bezel option, featuring diamond dials, was made available for some models from the mid-1950s to the early 1970s. However, the Datejust has mainly been popularised for its aesthetically neutral yet sharp design that has often been called the ultimate ‘goes everywhere, does everything’ style. The Datejust in recent years has been seen as more of a formal watch, taking the crown from the sporty Oyster Perpetual for being the most versatile of the Rolex watches.

The Datejust 6605 was the first to incorporate the Cyclops bubble magnifier, increasing the date aperture size significantly. Jubilee and Oyster bracelets have been commonly paired with this model. The Oyster case and the Cyclops bubble were such an improvement upon early design that they have remained largely unchanged to this day. The President bracelet, designed specifically for the Datejust, has also remained an option since the Datejust’s release.

The legacy and impact of the Datejust

It would be difficult to overstate the impact that the Datejust has had on the watch industry. The Rolex Datejust is a truly timeless creation that has spanned eras and transcended changing fashions. The Datejust is the only watch that can still look just as good paired with a suit as with casual clothing. It can look as appropriate on a lady’s wrist as it does on a man. It is also a designer’s dream, as its classic and understated look provides a fantastic base upon which to build limited edition and unique pieces.

This has led to a huge array of refinements, including a dazzling choice of different dials, faces, bezels, metal combinations, and even different-sized cases. No other watch collection can boast such a wide and varied range.