Gucci’s Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno, debuted the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection at Triennale Milano during Milan Fashion Week. Titled “Incontri,” the collection was an ode to freedom, celebrating encounters between the city and the beach, and among individuals who share a love for life. The vibrant, energetic showcase was a testament to De Sarno’s unique creative vision, which seamlessly blended on-trend elements with distinctive brand codes.
The collection featured a diverse range of designs that catered to the modern, fashion-forward man. From colorful cabana shirts boasting bold GG jacquards to low-slung, stretchy swim shoes and an array of cool sunglasses, the line offered something for every discerning taste.
Long leather macs, a recurring trend on the runway this season, were also a highlight of the collection. De Sarno’s designs managed to stand out from the sea of suede, linen, and pastels seen elsewhere by incorporating unexpected pops of color and intricate detailing.
Irish actor Paul Mescal turned heads with his untucked blue shirt and black-and-white striped boxers, embodying the collection’s spirit of relaxed, spontaneous style. This sense of ease was palpable throughout the show, with short shorts and loose, casual silhouettes taking center stage.
While some critics drew comparisons between De Sarno’s work and that of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, it is evident that the designer is still finding his footing at Gucci. His commitment to creating distinctive designs that prioritize craftsmanship over blatant branding is commendable, as seen in the collection’s trompe-l’oeil designs and meticulous attention to detail.
De Sarno cited William Finnegan’s book, “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life,” as inspiration for the collection. While surfing was not explicitly referenced in the show notes, the spirit of freedom and exploration associated with the sport was palpable throughout the presentation.
Color played a crucial role in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, with De Sarno expertly combining contrasting hues and patterns to create a visual feast. Acid greens, synthetic purples, and bright orange were among the standout shades, complemented by more subdued tones like white, black, and brown.
In an interview backstage, De Sarno emphasized the importance of freedom in his creative process, explaining that he draws inspiration from the vastness of the ocean and the sense of possibility it represents. His commitment to building collections without making big statements is refreshing, as it allows for a more organic evolution of the Gucci brand under his direction.
In summary, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection is a vibrant celebration of freedom, encounters, and the joys of life. Sabato De Sarno’s distinctive approach to color, texture, and silhouette sets the brand apart in a sea of sameness, providing an exciting glimpse into the future of Gucci menswear.
A beautiful and attractive collection.