In the world of fashion, inspiration can come from anywhere, but sometimes it comes from the most unexpected places. For Sacai’s Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear Collection in Paris, designer Chitose Abe drew inspiration from the iconic Hollywood actor James Dean. Known for his rebellious spirit and effortless cool, Dean’s style both on and off screen was a blend of classic and edgy, which seems to be reflected in the Sacai collection. The use of contrasting fabrics and unconventional silhouettes mirrors Dean’s ability to balance traditional and unconventional elements.
The inclusion of collegiate elements in the collection nods to Dean’s youth and the sense of discovery and possibility that comes with it. Models walked the runway with little stacks of books, a reference to Dean’s love of learning and his thirst for knowledge. The varsity-style jackets with busy prints of cars or bright flowers, wide-leg chinos worn with slouchy, flecked cardigans or Fair Isle sweaters gave the collection a youthful, rebellious vibe, reminiscent of Dean’s persona.
Abe’s signature hybrid clothing style was evident throughout the collection, with new ideas born from her studies and experimentation with different techniques. Instead of collaborating with other brands, artists, or illustrators as she’s done in the past, Abe focused on fusing hard and soft fabrics, slicing up garments and patching them back together in unusual ways, and borrowing bits and pieces from past centuries for her contemporary silhouettes.
The collection showcased a range of contrasting elements, such as tops made partly from Neoprene or stiff, dark denim paired with silky, floaty panels at the back. A double-breasted jacket had tailored shorts tacked onto the bottom, and a pair of tailored trousers morphed into a long, sheer skirt. These silhouettes “may seem simple, but they’re actually complicated” to pull off, said Abe, referring to her sartorial sleight of hand.
The Future of Sacai Menswear
Dressed in a black T-shirt with a photo of Dean by Dennis Stock, Abe shared her perpetual quest for “newness” and her long-standing admiration for Dean’s approach to life. This collection encapsulates the spirit of James Dean while staying true to Sacai’s modern, innovative, and fashion-forward aesthetic. As Abe continues to push the boundaries of menswear, we can expect to see more groundbreaking designs and unexpected sources of inspiration in future collections.
In conclusion, the Sacai Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear Collection in Paris is a testament to the enduring influence of James Dean, not just in film but in fashion as well. Chitose Abe successfully channeled Dean’s spirit into a collection that is both stylish and intellectually stimulating, blending classic collegiate style with avant-garde elements to create something truly unique and inspiring.
