At first glance, the wide-lapeled double-breasted pantsuit in pinstriped beige, displayed on a mannequin at Umit Benan’s southern Milan atelier, exudes a sense of understated luxury. But to truly appreciate the depth of Benan’s work, one needs to experience the pieces in motion — a hallmark of the designer’s artistry.
Umit Benan is a master of subtlety, crafting garments that reveal their brilliance through the perfect cut and painstaking attention to detail. The ideal width of the pants, seamless waist-cinching, handcrafted buttonholes, and the richness of fabrics are best observed when worn, each element coming alive with movement.
Benan’s unique approach stems from a deep-rooted obsession with the Power ‘80s, but instead of relying on nostalgia, he refreshes this aesthetic for the present day. His work conjures an attitude, more than just clothing, balancing boldness with an elegance that feels both retro and modern.
From a chocolate brown linen and wool suit to a navy-blue overshirt, every garment is tailored with exacting precision. Even the simplest of pieces, like a striped shirt or jeans, are elevated through Benan’s meticulous craftsmanship. One standout example is a collarless white shirt worn over tuxedo pants, whose double-layer construction speaks to the level of refinement at play.
Having captured the loyalty of discerning male clientele, Benan is now embracing a growing female audience. His foray into womenswear this spring offered sophisticated pieces like shirtdresses with side slits — reminiscent of early Donna Karan — a baby blue pajama set, and a captivating tomato red double-breasted suit tailored to flatter the female form while maintaining a masculine edge.
With the introduction of denim and jerseys into his collection, Benan’s universe is expanding. This evolution is undoubtedly fueled by his recent decision to sell a majority stake in his brand to D Capital, the investment vehicle of New Guards Group founder Davide De Giglio.
The move signals Benan’s ambitions to take his luxe brand to even greater heights, as he continues to innovate and refine his designs for a global audience.
