At Milan Fashion Week, British luxury house dunhill unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection within the refined surroundings of Villa Mozart, presenting a season defined by precision, restraint, and an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. Captured through the lens of celebrated photographer Ethan James Green, the collection is distilled into a series of intimate portraits featuring model Parker Van Noord, forming what the house describes as its Spring Summer 2027 catalogue raisonné.
The Blazer at the Center of the Collection
For Spring/Summer 2027, dunhill places the blazer firmly at the heart of the wardrobe. The collection explores a nuanced spectrum of blue, from deep navy tailoring to vibrant sports coats, reflecting both tradition and contemporary sophistication.
Among the standout pieces is a navy double-face reefer coat meticulously handcrafted from rare Escorial wool. Double-breasted and layered over an 18-gauge cotton-silk roll-neck jumper, the look embodies the house’s dedication to luxurious materials and understated elegance.
Equally significant is the signature Bourdon blazer, presented in an eight-button double-breasted configuration and cut from superfine merino wool basket weave. The silhouette reflects dunhill’s enduring mastery of tailoring while maintaining a relaxed ease suited to modern dressing.
Heritage Meets Informality
Throughout the collection, Creative Director Simon Holloway continues to explore the dialogue between formal British tailoring and effortless personal style.
A refined leather trial jacket rendered in the perfect shade of drab exemplifies this approach. Heritage references are softened through relaxed styling and contemporary proportions, creating a wardrobe that feels both rooted in tradition and relevant for today.
This tension between formality and informality becomes a recurring theme. Tailoring appears in superfine kid mohair glen checks, while scarves are tied with studied nonchalance, suggesting a man who understands sartorial codes yet wears them instinctively rather than rigidly.
A Study in London Character
Monochrome dressing plays an important role throughout the catalogue. Shades of grey evoke memories of London’s streets during the 1980s, creating a distinctly British mood that feels cinematic rather than nostalgic.
One of the collection’s most intriguing details is the scarf, inspired by the late artist Lucian Freud and his habit of casually draping one over an open collar. What appears effortless becomes the subject of careful refinement, demonstrating dunhill’s obsession with subtle gestures that elevate everyday dressing.
The collection also introduces a striking bright-blue sports coat cut on the Bourdon block and crafted from worsted cashmere panama woven in Huddersfield. The piece injects vibrancy into the season while remaining unmistakably British in its construction and character.
The Catalogue Raisonné
Presented as a printed edition of 22 looks, the Spring/Summer 2027 catalogue follows Parker Van Noord through a series of elegant portraits photographed by Ethan James Green. More than a traditional lookbook, it functions as a visual study of modern masculine style—one that celebrates craftsmanship, restraint, and individuality.
The result is a collection that feels entirely London in spirit: intelligent, understated, and quietly luxurious. Through exceptional fabrics, precise tailoring, and thoughtful styling, dunhill continues Alfred Dunhill’s enduring pursuit of quality, presenting a wardrobe where heritage and contemporary elegance coexist with effortless confidence.
Photo @ethanjamesgreen
