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If Stefano Pilati’s Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection wholeheartedly embraced that suffix, with all its implied unattainable preciousness, brother line Z Zegna was focused on the urban and the accessible for Fall.

The biker world-inspired collection at Dirk Bikkembergs’ show was naturally heavy on leather and denim.

Habitually, Giorgio Armani takes his runway bows in Milan sporting navy—a sweater or a T-shirt. The hue was the linchpin of his Fall 2016 collection, as it has underpinned his career and the wardrobe of the Armani man. Why? Because navy is classic, unobtrusive, and universally appealing, all timeless hallmarks of the Armani aesthetic.

Where do the U.K. and Japan meet? “In a pleat,” rhymed Dean and Dan Caten, deadpan. “The samurai had these big skirts, with these big volumes; and then there’s the kilt and its pleated volume, and we’re matching the two worlds.”

The midsummer landscape in Sicily so ripples with dust and heat that it resembles the epic, parched vistas of Sergio Leone’s spaghetti Westerns. This observation—made, Stefano Gabbana said, somewhere deep between Palermo and Catania—was the catalyst for a collection that today incorporated a whole gulch of Western motifs.

Ermanno Scervino imbued his fall collection with very feminine elements. He worked Lurex for turtlenecks, covered tuxedos with crystals, decorated sweaters with sparkling embellishments, while fluid shirts featured ruffles. The result was heavy handed and showed a certain lack of taste. Androgyny is definitely a trend, but one that should be handles with care.