This was a mellow spring offering by Maison Margiela, and not just because models were strolling to the soothing tunes of “Last Year’s Man,” delivered by Leonard Cohen.
With an appealing mix of streetwear and ethnic references, Istanbul-based Bunyamin Aydin traveled to the Sahara for spring, incorporating Tuareg and North African designs and inspirations into his collection, for which he staged a Paris presentation for the first time
Dries Van Noten’s knack for old mansions and their lavish gardens has inspired more than one of his collections, and this season followed a similar pattern. “An imagined view from Kelmscott Manor [the country home of writer William Morris] on arts and crafts today,” the notes to his show informed. That translated into romantic visuals based on photo prints of floral tapestry and tonal patchworks.
Ilan Chetrite channeled a nautical vibe with his spring collection for Sandro, with wide ankle-length pants and striped short-sleeved sweaters that had a whiff of the Forties — think Gene Kelly in “Anchors Aweigh.”
A haunting and cinematic editorial by Christian Oita, The Exiled Prince follows Moroccan model and LGBTQ advocate Ossam Arad through a fictional yet deeply personal journey of exile, identity, and defiance in the Arab world.