This was a mellow spring offering by Maison Margiela, and not just because models were strolling to the soothing tunes of “Last Year’s Man,” delivered by Leonard Cohen.
With an appealing mix of streetwear and ethnic references, Istanbul-based Bunyamin Aydin traveled to the Sahara for spring, incorporating Tuareg and North African designs and inspirations into his collection, for which he staged a Paris presentation for the first time
Barnabé turned to seersucker suits and flocked nylon parkas for lightness. He worked with layering, as seen on papery shirt jackets worn over thin chambray shirts, and made the models dance in a wide range of pleated tapered pants, proving instantly that tailoring can and should be comfy, without compromising the look.
Dries Van Noten’s knack for old mansions and their lavish gardens has inspired more than one of his collections, and this season followed a similar pattern. “An imagined view from Kelmscott Manor [the country home of writer William Morris] on arts and crafts today,” the notes to his show informed. That translated into romantic visuals based on photo prints of floral tapestry and tonal patchworks.
Ilan Chetrite channeled a nautical vibe with his spring collection for Sandro, with wide ankle-length pants and striped short-sleeved sweaters that had a whiff of the Forties — think Gene Kelly in “Anchors Aweigh.”
Antonio Marras turns Spring 2027 menswear into a Sardinian wedding celebration, mixing romantic tailoring with florals, camouflage, relaxed trousers, short shorts and eccentric summer layering.
Jil Sander Spring 2027 menswear turns familiar tailoring, fluid trousers, crisp shirting and restrained knitwear into a quietly subversive study of proportion under Simone Bellotti.
Vogue World 2026: Milano celebrates Italian craftsmanship with an extraordinary cast of men, including MGK making his runway debut, J Balvin in Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Bolle in Alta Sartoria and Alton Mason in Brunello Cucinelli.
Glenn Martens takes his final bow at Diesel with Spring/Summer 2027, delivering distressed denim, undone tailoring, bare skin and rebellious menswear in Milan.
Blue-eyed model Roman Muravev commands Maurizio Montani’s lens in an elegant fashion story moving between dramatic black tailoring, sensual white suiting and rich burgundy eveningwear.