Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 Milan
Men’s Jersey and Knitwear
The total comfort of knitwear, the ductility of jersey, the texture of yarn that becomes an aesthetic dimension that creates new fabrics: the Emporio Armani collection has a strongly urban feel, characterised by the presence of jersey as a highlight and knitwear as an unusual detail. Rough-cut cloth jersey gives shape to pea coats and parkas made of needled check and in fabrics with a mohair look, lending an image of warmth and comfort.
Research into fabrics and a contemporary taste for graphics are surprisingly expressed in classic herringbone or damier jacquard into which gold and silver metallic threads are woven, interrupted by abstract brush strokes that hint at shodō, traditional Japanese calligraphy. The detail that lends character and defines the garments is that of the macro zip, which outlines the shape of the trousers or fully profiles the jacket.
The jacket becomes increasingly lightweight; unlined and completely unstructured, it offers precise details with features taken from the classic bomber, such as the small shawl collar, ribbed cuffs and bottom edge, and is paired with trousers with a suit effect, both in ribbed knit, as well as in jersey or patterned fabric. Jackets also come in a camel-coloured compact knit with gold side zipper, or have an incorporated waistcoat.
The formal suit has new proportions: a short and tight jacket with smaller lapels and slightly sagging shoulders, combined with wide trousers with two pleats, which gather at the bottom.
Accessories complete the collection, with the use of leathers, fabrics and processing. For example, unstructured rough-cut bags in soft nappa are lined with knitwear. Tan hand-held bags and the backpack are enhanced with macro hinges, or are made in needled check with shodō graphics. The traditional lace-ups feature tips and heels trimmed with contrasting rubber, while sneakers have a hinge and are covered in fabric. Scarves disappear for a season, replaced by striking collars and bibs in plain stitch with a zipper.
The colour palette is classic, featuring black, grey, camel, blue, hints of chocolate and metallic touches of satin gold and silver.