Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2016 Milan

Massimiliano Giornetti mixed the city street and the tropical outdoors for a collection that skewed particularly young for an accessories-led brand that’s been in business for nearly 90 years.

Working against a backdrop of palms, tropical greens and, oddly, a giant plastic gorilla at the end of the catwalk, Ferragamo’s creative director sent out models in baseball caps wearing sports-inspired riffs on the traditional suit. Baseball style and other abbreviated jackets were done in pinstripes — some with contrast piping — and were paired with roomy, pleated trousers. More traditional suits were worn over T-shirts, or layered over sweaters accessorized with colorful skinny ties. Colors were of the earth — plum, ochre, cocoa, turquoise and palm leaf green — and came in blocks or stripes on everything from knits to outerwear. Baseball and leather jackets were adorned with cactus and monkey designs on the back — Fifties  greaser style — while one sweater was paved with varsity letter patches, in keeping with the youthful spin.

 The luxury customer is getting younger and is searching for ways to dress down while still looking pulled-together. While there were pieces in this collection that will certainly fit that bill, many of the looks were trying too hard to be hip.

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