Marni Spring/Summer 2017 Milan

By Miles Socha

Awkward proportions, which can be a signpost of that tender moment between boyhood and manhood, seem to be a perpetual fascination chez Marni. It was amplified in Consuelo Castiglioni’s uneven spring collection.

Insurance-salesman trench coats and beige leisure suits slipped from the narrow frames of the gangly models, for these garments were sliced up the back and held together, partially, by Velcro strips. It was hard not to think of hospital gowns (albeit minus the risk of mooning.)

 Or were these tear-away clothes part of what seemed to be a subliminal bondage theme, evident in straps lashed across the chests of suits and coats, and the fabric harnesses dangling from the waistbands of cropped pants – an emerging trend this European season. Marni’s came with square portholes above the ankle. Wide lace-up shoes and sandals, some ungainly as duck feet, accentuated the geek-chic attitude.

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 There were cute items, notably pert leather blousons, retro ski sweaters and shirts with shoulder tucks that actually gave the shoulders some width – a hint of grownup chic.

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