Loewe Spring/Summer 2017 Paris

By Miles Socha

Jonathan Anderson, whose range as a designer runs from rustic to futuristic, was in full-on organic mode creating Loewe’s spring men’s collection. There was enough driftwood on the necklaces to clog a culvert, and enough rumpled linen for five summers in Ibiza.

 The accompanying photo book set the mood: two young models adrift on a small yellow catamaran, their heads wrapped in pirate scarves, feet shod in croc slippers.

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Anderson captured the summer idyll of Ibiza and the eccentric dress codes of locals in his languid shirts dangling streamers and little pouches; long boxing trunks in buttery leather; cropped rain jackets in bright yellow, and plain gray cardigans, the hems dipped in gold.

 The designer sees craft at the root of the Spanish house, and one could feel it in every piece, from gleaming shackle bracelets to a backpack woven from faded shredded denim.

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