John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2017 New York

By Jean E. Palmieri

Leave it to John Varvatos to continue to bend the rules. He was the one to close out New York Fashion Week this year. 

 A season after he transformed his Bowery store into a fun house, the designer chose an intimate underground nightclub as the backdrop to show his spring collection.

The location meant that the number of attendees was limited, but it also allowed Varvatos to more effectively showcase the “fabrics, details, textures and finishes” of the line, he said. “I want to do something different and this venue could be in France.”

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Even so, the line still had the classic Varvatos ethos — albeit with a more romantic edge. The rock ‘n’ roll influence was evident in the designer’s signature elongated coats with linen scarves and white jeans that were among the more directional looks.

 A linen canvas pick-stitched pinstripe jacket, a blazer with zippers that created a summer outerwear hybrid and rich linen biker jackets felt fresh and showcased the play on textures.

 “This is the first time I’ve named a collection,” Varvatos said, “The Urban Romantic. All the young guys in the city love the grit and the culture but they also love the Old World details and want to look contemporary.”

 He heeded their call.

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