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Moschino Fall/Winter 2017 Milan

Moschino Fall/Winter 2017 Menswear + Women’s Resort Fashion Show in Milan.

Moschino Fall/Winter 2017 Menswear + Women’s Resort Fashion Show in Milan. 

The signature playfulness was there, but Jeremy Scott, for his Moschino men’s wear debut in Milan, was in a reflective mood.

“It’s a global situation. Of course, my country’s in the toilet, but when my country’s in the toilet, the world’s in the toilet. We have to fight — for rights, for beauty, for everything we believe in because it’s being ripped away from us. That’s very much [what I wanted to convey] in the show. [On the clothes] frescoes have been covered over with black paint, arbitrarily, to hide them. That’s what I feel is going on. And trying to find any bits of beauty that you can and almost making emblems and totems of them,” said Scott, who to accessorize silhouettes loaded berets and gloves with metal military trinkets — Eighties-style — that clinked down the runway.

The designer for his set installed scaffolding in the gilded rooms of an ancient palazzo on Milan’s Corso Magenta that he rigged with tangles of colored cables and flashing tubes like some dystopian wasteland. Out stepped Scott’s warriors of a future humanity, dressed in metallic pants and gloves and suits in intergalactic prints splashed with spaceships and explosions.

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