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Loewe Spring/Summer 2018 Paris

Jonathan Anderson's whimsical collection was filled with needlepoint, stripes and raffia.

By Samantha Conti

He may not be selling seashells by the seashore, but Jonathan Anderson has certainly been collecting them — and other sandy bits of seaside ephemera — for this whimsical collection filled with needlepoint, stripes and raffia. This is Loewe S/S 2018.

“It’s the anniversary of the summer of love — it’s the easiness, the breeziness of summer,” said Anderson, who shot the campaign at the Salvador Dalí house in Portlligat on Spain’s Costa Brava.

In a nod to Dali, Anderson filled the Paris show space with pots of the yellow sempervivum flowers that grow at Portlligat and laid bright blue tiles on the floor. A new collection of large and small basket weave bags sat alongside leather charms in the shape of octopuses, shells and starfish, while a cartoonish skull and crossbones motif popped on bags, small accessories, a hat, sweatshirts and espadrilles.

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The collection picks up and develops the narrative arc of previous #LOEWE seasons, bringing to life an eclectic array of ideas associated with life by the sea and an adolescent imagination

While the clothing may have been inspired by beachside life, some pieces — such as the suede onesie retro bathing suit and the pair of trunks with a thick twisted ribbon and silver embellishment — were more for the bar than the pool. Ditto for the floppy blue silk trunks with the rope belt, which Anderson said were his favorites.

By contrast, the scoop-neck ribbed sweater with striped or transparent patch pockets, and the wrinkled silk and poplin shirt that looked as if it had dried in the salty air were highlights, as were the stripy shirts with needlepoint bibs.

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