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Theory Spring/Summer 2018 New York

The collection marked the debut of new designer Martin Andersson.

By Alex Badia

Like many transplanted Europeans, new Theory designer Martin Andersson, previously of Cos, couldn’t resist the allure of Americana.

“I concentrated on the great American classics rooted in uniforms, sports and workwear,” Andersson said at the brand’s rooftop presentation, with Manhattan’s skyline as a backdrop.

The sporty pieces included sweatpants, hoodies and bombers in cotton, technical nylon and paper-thin leather. The workwear influences were clear on updated Dickies-inspired pants with a single pleat, as well as a “geeky” take on a railroad-stripe suit.

Punches of yellow and orange gave the mostly neutral lineup jolts of energy.

The tailored clothing offering had a subtle Fifties feel with the addition of the Gansevoort silhouette, a softly constructed suit with a natural shoulder and narrow pants. The new style came in a travel jersey and a technical nylon and polyester seersucker. Ultrathin anoraks worn under blazers enhanced the technical yet modern urban feel.

The lineup might come across as unexciting at first, but after a closer look, the minimalist approach felt like a perfect palate-cleanser.

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