The Strong Men
From Vivienne Westwood Ready To Wear Spring/Summer 2019 Paris. Designed by Andreas Kronthaler.
Bodybuilders and physique athletes walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2019 on September 29, 2018 in Paris, France.
…well damn. Okay we see you Vivienne Westwood Spring 2019 ready-to-wear collection.
The theatricality and chaos was present in the Spring/Summer 2019 collection of Vivienne Westwood at the fashion week in Paris, where the proposal of the creator took dreamlike and deconstructed directions, showing tailoring in oversize cuts, prints from head to toe and striking hosiery for summer. In the middle of the sunlit show space, a five-strong team in AK for VW tabard T-shirts was busily tearing pieces from a huge bolt of paper and adding to a scrunched sculpture of a tree, from whose branches in the rafters hung white balloons.
They went on at it—changing shades of paper later to blue—in a show that was highly entertaining even without the usual pleasure of a Kronthaler explanation (crazy-late schedule today) to fill in the gaps
Its an electric scooter has a unique folding mechanism that enables easy and quick folding to very compact dimensions.
Other models—many of them seriously ripped beefcakes wearing tight underwear possibly made in collaboration with Yasmine Eslami—casually circumnavigated the tree on electric scooters like those currently left by Bird and its rivals here, there, and everywhere on the streets of Paris. So there was a lot going on.
Held in a garage, much of these looks were transported around the runway by wheel.
Some of the models, both male and female, did the rounds by skateboard—one of them in long robes covered with an equine print that ran through the collection (and which was worn by Westwood in the front row) coolly popped a couple of ollies as he went.
Amongst his influences for this season, Kronthaler cited Jessica Fulford-Dobson’s Skate Girls of Kabul photo portfolio and the catalog for this April’s auction of items from the pre-refurbishment Ritz hotel in Paris.
One look featured a chair for a hat, another incorporated a tea tray as a peplum, and there was a lot of corsetry and bolstering of both breast and buttock.
There was drunken tailoring aplenty, dirndl asides, modest robes in Saturn print, a great paint-spatter jacquard, and a bellhop outfit in pink moire. It was a highly entertaining show—let’s just hope that tree gets recycled.
Born in Tyrol, Austria, on the 26th January 1966, Andreas Kronthaler’s first foray into the arts was at the age of 14 when he entered art school in Graz, Austria, where he spent the next five years training to be a jeweller.
As a way of supporting himself through school he made clothes which he sold to stores locally- this curiosity and self-sufficiency was probably where his talent in fashion first blossomed.
Kronthaler and Westwood were married in 1993. Over the years, Kronthaler had chosen to be a silent partner, preferring to take a less public role but their partnership is nevertheless one of fashion’s most formidable.
While Westwood is unconventional and challenging, Kronthaler is driven by quality and progress. Together, they are able to stimulate, support and encourage one another.
Today, Andreas Kronthaler remains the Creative Director of the company, as well as Vivienne’s design partner. Westwood and Kronthaler continue to design together and their work is the source of several collections and accessory lines, carried out, together with their design team.