The collection riffed on the house’s seventies archives, while the brand also presented its first eco-sustainable collection: Circle.
“New energies are coming up,” said Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, who took as his starting point Quentin Tarantino’s latest flick, “Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood.” The film is set in the late Sixties, early Seventies, one of the strongest periods for the house, but also one that reflects “the kind of instability — economic, social, politial — we’re living in today,” he explained.
“In the Seventies, the mavericks were coming out with a new energy, influencing people in a positive way, breaking the rules in a positive way, just like today. We have new values coming up, like sustainability,” he said.
The designer looked to the sophistication of heritage Corneliani pieces from the Seventies, reinterpreted with new volumes, fabrics and high-tech technologies. Highlights included a lightweight spin on the military eskimo jacket with oversized proportions; a varsity jacket-style color-blocked reversible bomber, and degrade knits in a masculine Seventies palette.
He also revisited the Vogue suit from the Eighties, based on a one-and-half-breasted blazer to be worn open and matched with wide-legged pants.
Geared to modern lifestyles, a “techno blazer” capsule featured crease-free navy blazers and white shirts made from high performance materials like ripstock, as well as Sensitive polyester, the same material used for running garments.
Circle, the house’s first eco-sustainable collection, presented six looks, with plans to grow the line. They included a car coat in 100 percent GOTS-certified organic cotton with a slight sheen; a polo shirt in 100 percent BCI-certified pima cotton, and a cardigan jacket in 100 percent BCI certified Arctic Cotton.