Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Milan

Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Milan presented a more subdued collection infused with sporty references.

Ever the provocateur with a penchant for blockbuster shows, Philipp Plein questioned himself in the aftermath of the pandemic as he was readying his spring men’s collection.

Instead of the 6,000 guests who attended his physical show in February, Plein had a digital audience to impress this season. To capture their attention, he decided to appear in a short video sporting the brand’s spring collection to the tune of Depeche Mode’s “Personal Jesus.” “Today I’m at a point where I have to rethink what’s going to happen in the future,” the designer said, speaking in the video showcasing the lineup. “There’s a magic in every beginning,” he added, recalling how he built the brand from scratch 20 years ago betting big on his dreams.

His latest effort felt indeed a new beginning for the brand and a palate cleanser, playing a restrained palette of solids, including black, white and even sorbet tones such as baby blue and pale pink. There were plenty of comfy options, with cuffed sweatpants and hooded tops worn with perfecto jackets and high-top trainers. Tailoring, too, had a sporty attitude with blazers featuring zippered pockets and drawstrings pants.

It may have felt a bit more subdued, but Plein’s signature sequined embellishments and flashy decorations were all still there. In keeping with the brand’s opulent audacity, a biker jacket was crafted from matte and shiny crocodile leather while another version was encrusted with an eagle-shaped decoration.

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