We’re about to see Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Designed by Olivier Rousteing Men’s F/W 2022-23 in Paris.
A major artistic accomplishment for Olivier Rousteing, in an all embracing homage to Jean-Paul Gaultier, making him the third designer to have created a couture collection for the former enfant terrible de la mode.
Rousteing riffing through scores of Gaultier references, making the DNA of Jean-Paul his own, in a proper fashion moment.
Opening with over a dozen menswear looks, incorporating elements of punk, Maasai imagery and haughty naughty sailor looks. Kicking off with Aztec cyber punks in patchworks of stretch jersey, Breton fisherman tops and wild safari imagery. Accessorized with nose rings and chains; massive bracelets and the first of a series of Pinball Wizard boots, except Olivier’s platform soles mimicked the metallic flacons of great Gaultier scents.
The light altered as soon as the first women’s looks appeared, a full length recreation of the Le Male perfume bottle for women; followed by two voluminous versions of the iconic Madonna cone bustier.
Like the rest of the cast, these gals marched past the photographers’ pit and onto the main balcony of Gaultier’s 3rd arrondissement headquarters, causing the outside crowd of some 2,000 fans to go wild.
Rousteing was also smart enough to blend in his own rock star ideas with gangster chalk-stripe suits and a molded brassiere dress worn by Dutch veteran model Lara Stone which ignited a huge burst of applause. Cheers rippled through the audience that included Ashley Scott and Lucien Laviscount of Emily in Paris fame; Rossy Di Palma; soccer legend Neymar Jr; and three generations American TV royalty – Chris Jenner, Kim Kardashian and daughter North West.
The whole crowd erupted at a pair of faux pregnant models with molded leather breastplates, one black the other white, clutching their tummies. A visual trumpet call reminding everyone of Gaultier’s barrier breaking and tolerance trumpeting collections over many decades.
Everything made with humor and containing lots of future commercial successes. Interspersed with sugar gum pop tunes from Gaultier’s preferred French singer, Mylène Farmer, with news reel reportages on Gaultier, and even Jean-Paul explaining his ideas to straight TV reporters.
At the finale, Jean-Paul and Olivier took an extended tour of the runway and outside balcony, driving the fans nuts. And leaving the house’s Puig family owners with smiles as wide as Cheshire cats.
Artistic Direction : Olivier Rousteing
Jean Paul Gaultier Creative Direction : Florence Tétier
Casting Direction : Anita Bitton
Movement Direction : Nicolas Huchard
Hair stylist : Sam Mc Knight
Makeup artist : Isamaya Ffrench with MAC Cosmetics
Nail artist : Lili Creuk with Kure Bazaar
Sound designer : Jean-Michel Derain “Sans contrefaçons” Mylène Farmer (Mylène Farmer / Laurent Boutonnat) © Bertrand Lepage Ed. Sarl – Universal Music Publishing France (P) 1987 Polydor France avec l’aimable autorisation d’Universal Music France
Copywriter : PLUME
Show Design & Production : La Mode en Images With the support of Dyson, Evian
Special thanks to Olivier Rousteing and his Team, Monsieur Jean Paul Gaultier, the Atelier and the Jean Paul Gaultier Team.