For Spring/Summer 2027, Sacai’s Chitose Abe placed menswear firmly in the spotlight, presenting a dedicated runway show that emphasized the label’s unmistakable approach to reconstruction and hybrid design. With only a handful of women’s resort looks appearing alongside the collection, Abe focused her full attention on reshaping the foundations of classic American menswear, transforming familiar preppy staples into garments that felt rebellious, effortless, and unmistakably Sacai.
This season, the designer collaborated with Brooks Brothers, mining the brand’s rich heritage of Ivy League tailoring and 1980s prep. Rather than recreating those polished classics, Abe filtered them through the relaxed, slightly disheveled attitude of the 1990s, producing a collection where refinement gave way to experimentation.
The traditional navy blazer became the collection’s centerpiece. Lapels were sliced open to expose contrasting linings, while structured jackets were reconstructed with khaki trench coat elements around collars and pockets. Signature gold-button blazers were cropped into shorter proportions and paired with flowing trousers and oversized scarves fashioned from deconstructed silk ties. The result balanced heritage tailoring with an intentionally undone attitude, creating silhouettes that felt both sophisticated and rebellious.
Classic menswear shirting also underwent Sacai’s signature transformation. Crisp blue button-down shirts featured colorful tassels running along their plackets, while oversized silk rosettes emerged across chests as unexpected decorative elements. Those floral details continued throughout the collection, appearing on vividly colored shirts, denim jackets, and leather outerwear, introducing softness into otherwise utilitarian silhouettes.
Outerwear remained one of Abe’s strongest design languages. Toggle-front coats were reworked with missing sleeves, trench details were fused into tailoring, and oversized coats appeared in vibrant canary yellow, injecting unexpected energy into traditionally conservative garments. Loose-fitting trousers, often finished with functional straps and workwear-inspired hardware, reinforced the collection’s relaxed proportions without sacrificing precision.
Accessories continued the theme of reinvention. Sacai partnered with Birkenstock to create hybrid sandals featuring oversized buckles, layered straps, and exaggerated proportions that mirrored the collection’s reconstructed aesthetic. Abe also incorporated archival artwork from the legendary British music collective Soul II Soul, transforming vintage album graphics into collage-print textiles that connected fashion with music and cultural nostalgia.
Throughout the collection, Sacai demonstrated once again that innovation often begins by questioning the familiar. Instead of abandoning classic tailoring, Chitose Abe dismantled it piece by piece before rebuilding it into something entirely contemporary. Spring/Summer 2027 celebrates craftsmanship through deconstruction, proving that tradition and experimentation can coexist within the same garment while continuing to define Sacai as one of menswear’s most original voices.
