An idea, a representation, a metaphor. Amid manicured grounds at the Château de Chantilly, #PierpaoliPiccioli presented a new take on Couture, one where simplicity meets complexity through opulent detail.
As the sun set over a symphony of looks at Valentino “Un Château,” the seamstresses of the Maison joined Creative Director @pppiccioli on the runway to celebrate the latest #ValentinoHauteCouture collection.
His overwhelming desire to create numerous looks for a couture show is unfortunately working against him. Although there are several intriguing concepts, the sheer quantity of pieces has resulted in each one being only partially developed. The occasional instances of carelessness cannot adequately mask the fact that some items do not fit properly or function as intended. It appears that a significant lack of effort permeates throughout this collection.
What could have been has been greatly diluted to the point where this appears like a readily accessible collection complemented by an impressive backdrop. Moreover, it is worth noting that he may not be as adept a colorist as he perceives himself to be.
Not only did creative director @pppiccioli show off his masterful hold on colouring, he challenged the notion of couture itself with his coed show that gave us a blend of casual and formal looks. A suitably starry front row, featuring house ambassador and British actress Florence Pugh, South Korean actress Son Ye-Jin and singer-songwriter Raye, watched on while wearing striking Valentino looks.
Impressive in scale and detail, the location demands a caliber of artistry that few but @pppiccioli and his skilled atelier can deliver. His signature grand dresses looked almost too perfect on a runway winding through the garden pools that were designed by the same landscape architect responsible for the gardens at Versailles. The voluminous silhouettes were aided by an evening breeze, flowing in a way that brought tears to many guest’s eyes.
Mind-boggling workmanship, like a white cape of cashmere coating appliquéd onto nearly invisible netting, nodded to the estate’s baroque history. Ditto, the interpretations of ermine, which came feathered and printed on a dreamy billowing taffeta gown.
And then there were the colors—a veritable artist’s palette of stunning shades fro Yves Klein blues to Paris green, a shade that stuck around due to it’s beauty, despite being acutely toxic. And of course, there was pink, a shade that few brands besides Valentino and a certain doll could make their signature. They came in bubblegum, PPPink, and deep fuchsia.
In one of the best traditions Piccioli has set, the entire atelier walked the runway to a standing ovation and tears of joy (from both sides). Under their neat white lab coats, some were dressed ready to celebrate and party the night away with the rest of the guests. Well-deserved!
Relive the entire experience, featuring a soundtrack by @ANOHNI, online now through the link in bio.