Completing the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week with the presentation of Balmain’s fall-winter collection. No minimalism here – Olivier Rousteing has prepared a true extravaganza of brightness with different textures, prints, and patterns (varied polka dots on suits and an abundance of stripes), colors (unexpected combinations of yellow and purple, green and red, orange and lilac), and metals.
The collection is primarily dedicated to the human face. Silhouettes of the human eye or lips are used in almost all the outfits. One of the most interesting moments was towards the end of the show when a model appeared on the runway wearing a golden mask, completely concealing facial features. Naomi Campbell closed the show.
Olivier Rousteing first Balmain homme runway collection was a celebration of the creatives of the continent of Africa, with colour and vibrancy, bold design and strong shoulders at the heart of todays outing.
“It’s luxury, but it’s definitely not quiet.” That’s how Olivier Rousteing summed up Balmain’s fall men’s collection, with its riot of bright color, figurative prints and polka dots, metallic gleam and couture-caliber embellishments.
He opened the display with an overcoat paved in pea-size crystals that portrayed two eyes, a nose and red lips. Rousteing explained the face belonged to no one, generated by AI, and then made a painful expression when asked how the crystals were gradient-colored to achieve the effect. For now, it’s a mystery belonging to Balmain’s formidable atelier.
After nearly 13 years at the creative helm of the house, Rousteing keeps finding new missions for himself, the latest being to apply to menswear the same level of intensive craft and freewheeling expression seen in women’s fashion, and to build bridges between Paris and Africa. (The designer is of Somalian-Ethiopian descent, and was raised in Bordeaux by his adoptive parents before pursuing fashion studies in the French capital.)
Rousteing characterized Balmain’s return to a dedicated men’s show after four years of coed displays as a “rebirth,” with him freely borrowing ideas from the women’s archive of Pierre Balmain, referencing the arsenal of codes he’s introduced, tailoring being primordial, and following his own fashion instincts.
“A man that is joyful, that is confident, that is not scared of being judged, a man that is feeling free,” he enthused. “I don’t think we should base the world on whether we are quiet or not. I think we need to base our world on what we believe,” he said. “I don’t think it’s important today to be part of a trend. It’s important to be yourself.”
There were no skirts, corsets or pussy-bow blouses. Rather, the freedom that women enjoy in fashion was expressed with daring color clashes, lavish embellishments and bold jewelry, including a surfeit of bangles and armbands, some resembling grills.
The designer likes to call his daringly dressed dandies “the new princes of the world,” and they indeed looked the money toting gleaming gold briefcases, and walking on shiny brogues with heels trimmed in gold
Lips repeated as a key motif, red kisses planted at chest level on a white shirt and tie, or all over a roomy black suit. Eyes, some with 3D gold eyelashes, winked from skintight turtlenecks, or came whorled miraculously into draped cashmere coats.
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain Menswear Fall 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week was a vibrant celebration of African creativity, featuring bold colors, prints, and textures. The collection embraced luxury with extravagant designs, from polka-dotted suits to metallic gleam and couture details. As a design student, I loved it a lot! I also like to use help from online resources such as https://www.instagram.com/paperial_com/ for support. A key motif was the human face, with eyes and lips featured on many pieces, and the show even closed with Naomi Campbell wearing a golden mask. Rousteing, who has led Balmain for nearly 13 years, emphasized freedom and confidence in men’s fashion, pushing boundaries and borrowing from the women’s archive. His designs showcased a powerful blend of joy, bold color clashes, and lavish embellishments, breaking away from trends to focus on individual expression. The collection’s fearless designs, including striking jewelry and gold-trimmed shoes, positioned Rousteing’s “new princes of the world” as confident, avant-garde icons.
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