“What is the distinction between fashion and style?” This is the inquiry that Demna pondered as he crafted the autumn Balenciaga collection. The collection remained faithful to his intense, do-it-yourself inclinations, albeit with reduced distress and an added touch of dry humor and even lightheartedness.
It was within the beaded, animal-print gown that initiated the presentation, the gum-snapping model neglecting to correct her posture or remove the tag from the sleeve as she moved through a corridor of video monitors displaying picturesque landscapes: mountains, deserts, forests, and icebergs.
As the marketing and merchandising departments wield increasing influence at Europe’s major fashion houses, resulting in collections dedicated to singular themes such as a specific color, flower, or prevalent trend such as sheer or cowboy style, Demna wished to emphasize the necessity of multiple ideas in creating a captivating fashion show. To underscore this point, he included a typed, full-page inventory of his creations on each seat. You can find the original source of the content here.
Many of the designs displayed exceptional originality and often a touch of wit. Long dresses were fashioned from a series of hoodies or T-shirts, while trenchcoats, shirts, and blazers were designed to be hung around the neck and worn as an apron – an idea also employed by Victoria Beckham. Additionally, trousers were draped over the shoulders and fastened into loose tops, and roomy, crinkled men’s tailoring devoid of any padding was presented, exuding a languid elegance akin to a silk bathrobe. Notably, prominent shoulder pads were exclusively featured in the opening gowns, drawing inspiration from the “hip-aulette” constructions established by the founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Clever accessories were offered, including beanies designed to be pulled down over the eyes while still permitting visibility. A sturdy motocross glove was repurposed as a zippered evening clutch, and there were also stocking boots with built-in runs.
“I utilized this collection as a medium for creative expression, placing significant emphasis on highlighting my personal style,” Demna expressed in a phone interview the evening before the event.
A moment of realization occurred as he strolled to his workplace in Paris one morning, clad in a floor-sweeping coat and wide, tattered jogging pants paired with the sharply pointed, elongated dress shoes that had made their debut at his Balenciaga couture show the previous July. Two young men approached him and requested permission to capture his attire in a photograph, unaware of his role as the creative director of Balenciaga or the need to include his visage in the snapshot.
In that particular moment, he came to the realization that he was not solely curating collections, conceptualizing products, and challenging the fashion system, but also cultivating a distinctive style.
“I have been cultivating this aesthetic for nearly a decade now, and it has evolved beyond my control. There are individuals whom I observe in everyday settings; their attire may resemble Balenciaga, yet it is not. Nevertheless, their distinctive manner of wearing and coordinating garments, as well as playing with proportions, embodies the essence of Demna’s style.”
The production will be notable for its departure from excessively large silhouettes and its stunning set design. Tranquil rural landscapes transitioned into bustling city life, followed by a display of exaggerated performances and AI-driven peculiarity, culminating in a state of stasis.
“There exists beauty in reality that we frequently overlook due to the amount of time we dedicate to screens,” remarked Demna. “I perceive this excessive intake of content as potentially perilous. My intention was to establish a contrast between this abundance of content and the concept of our inability to concentrate on matters of true significance.”
The individual inadvertently included a bold marketing message within the assortment: A rib-knit piece bearing the slogan “Maintain composure and adorn this Balenciaga sweater.”
Discover the collection now on https://www.balenciaga.com/winter24
