Opening Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027, Saint Laurent delivered another masterclass in sensual masculinity under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello. Presented in Paris on the first day of the Spring/Summer 2027 season, the collection continued the designer’s exploration of elegance, desire, and effortless sophistication.
Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent man remains confident and refined, but for Summer 2027 he appeared lighter, more relaxed, and perfectly attuned to the realities of modern dressing. The collection emphasized fluid tailoring, elongated silhouettes, and an ease that felt both luxurious and nonchalant. Sharp-shouldered jackets were softened by lightweight fabrics, while trousers flowed effortlessly with movement, creating a sense of understated glamour.
Color played a crucial role throughout the collection. Rich earth tones, muted jewel shades, and sun-faded hues brought warmth to the runway, reinforcing Vaccarello’s ongoing fascination with cinematic storytelling and summer escapism. The palette echoed the sophisticated sensuality that has become a hallmark of his tenure at Saint Laurent.
Rather than relying on overt trends, Vaccarello focused on precision and attitude. Relaxed jackets, fluid shirts, and elegantly draped separates suggested a wardrobe designed for men who appreciate timeless style over fleeting fashion moments. The result was a collection that felt contemporary without sacrificing the house’s legendary codes of seduction and refinement.
As Saint Laurent continues its ambition to expand its menswear business, Summer 2027 demonstrated exactly why the brand remains one of the most influential forces in luxury fashion. Vaccarello once again proved that modern masculinity can be powerful without rigidity, sensual without excess, and elegant without effort.
Anthony Vaccarello continues to refine the Saint Laurent man with remarkable consistency. Summer 2027 is less about reinvention and more about perfecting a vision—one where elegance, confidence, and desire coexist in perfect balance.
“I asked myself: ‘Why torture women with plastic shoes, but not men?’” he said with a grin.
At times, the fog coagulated around the center of the room, giving a clear view on the pronounced shoulders Vaccarello favors, here on elongated jackets in languid fabrics, occasionally sparked with jeweled buttons — a styling trick he borrowed from the late Tina Chow, whose portrait was pinned to the mood board in his backstage lodge.
At others, the models were nearly fully obscured, but then you might catch a glimpse of bare legs, since some jackets were styled with leather briefs.
The designer continued to play with colorful nylons, here whorled into terrific anoraks with superhero shoulders and ruched, couture-like sleeves. They came in sugary pastels and were tucked into the kind of high-waisted gray trousers Jacques Chirac might have worn.
“I like that contrast — something very old-school mixed with something very, very contemporary,” he commented. “We wanted to lighten the silhouette, strip away the jacket structures, and make everything truly fluid and much softer, creating a sensuality in the movement.”
The designer also eased up on gimmicks — like the leather hip waders that went viral last year, or the pussy-bow blouses seen on Connor Storrie recently — to focus on “rather straightforward, quintessentially masculine” archetypes like a trenchcoat, vest or sailor sweater.
“I was thinking about how [Yves] Saint Laurent was one of the first to take everyday, ordinary clothes and elevate them. Back then, sportswear wasn’t the street-style staple it is today. So I wondered how he would have interpreted or worked with sportswear now,” he mused.
Vaccarello gave everything his inimitable dressy spin, his cape-back blousons and T-shirts cut in fluid, hammered satins. Meanwhile, his finale looks in lame seemed to be dipped in gold, including a trenchcoat, suit and a snug ribbed-knit sweater.
Still, no amount of fog could obscure that this was one of Vaccarello’s most diverse and approachable men’s collections yet.
YSL by @anthonyvaccarello
