For Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri continues to establish her new language at Fendi with a co-ed collection built around the body, sensuality and a wardrobe increasingly unconcerned with traditional gender boundaries. Presented in Milan on September 23, this is Chiuri’s second runway collection for the Roman house.
Looking specifically at the menswear, the proposition feels noticeably freer than conventional luxury tailoring. These are clothes that expose, drape, shimmer and move rather than armor the wearer.
The Fendi Man Gets Sensual
The strongest message in the menswear is immediately visible in the styling: the male torso becomes part of the look.
Jackets are worn over sheer or deeply scooped tanks. Shirts fall open almost to the waist. A striped white shirt is barely buttoned beneath an intricately perforated coat, while another elongated white shirt is left completely open beneath a cropped fur vest. Elsewhere, a black sleeveless sequined top plunges dramatically toward the waist.
This is not simply sexiness inserted for runway effect. Chiuri built the wider collection around underwear and its relationship with the body, using bras, boxers and slips to question conventional boundaries between private and public clothing and between traditionally masculine and feminine wardrobes. Vogue Italia describes the collection as moving increasingly beyond gender boundaries.
On the men, that idea becomes particularly effective because it disrupts familiar menswear without making the clothes appear like costume.
Tailoring Without the Corporate Uniform
Chiuri hasn’t abandoned tailoring. Instead, she has taken some of the stiffness out of it.
One of the strongest looks in the selection pairs an ivory suit with an almost completely open white shirt and a short striped fur jacket. The trousers are loose and fluid, pooling slightly around flat sandals. The combination is luxurious but intentionally undone.
Black tailoring receives similar treatment. Long coats and jackets are cut with recognizable masculine proportions, but they’re paired with sheer tanks, shorts, washed denim and exposed skin.
The result suggests that Fendi’s new man doesn’t need a perfectly assembled suit to communicate luxury.
Even the more conventional black trousers are generously cut. There is room around the leg and an ease through the hip that works beautifully against the fitted or transparent pieces above.
Shorts Become Part of the Luxury Vocabulary
Chiuri also makes a persuasive case for the long short.
Black knee-length shorts appear with a sparkling cardigan and sheer tank, while another look combines dramatically abbreviated striped shorts with an open shirt and patchworked fur vest.
Rather than reading as sportswear, these shorts function almost like abbreviated tailoring.
It’s an important distinction. The proportions allow the legs to become another exposed part of the silhouette, continuing the collection’s conversation between clothing and body.
Fur in Spring—But Reconsidered
And then, inevitably, there is fur.
At Fendi it carries enormous historical weight, and Chiuri isn’t pretending otherwise. She previously described softness and sensuality as qualities inherent to the material and central to her conception of the house.
Here it becomes less about the grand fur coat and more about texture and interruption.
Striped and patchworked fur appears as cropped jackets, sleeveless pieces, scarves and sections layered against tailoring. One particularly effective menswear look places a graphic brown-and-black fur piece over an otherwise monochromatic ivory suit.
Another combines a camel overcoat, washed wide-leg jeans and a fur stole.
That last combination may be one of the clearest expressions of Chiuri’s emerging Fendi: bourgeois Roman luxury colliding with something much more relaxed and contemporary.
Denim Breaks the Formality
Washed denim provides another useful counterweight.
The jeans are wide, faded and slightly worn-looking rather than precious. Styled beneath long black or camel coats, striped tailoring and fur, they prevent the collection from becoming overly polished.
There’s something deliberately nonchalant about wearing faded jeans with extravagant Fendi craftsmanship.
It also connects Spring 2027 to the shared wardrobe Chiuri began developing in previous collections, where straightforward, functional garments coexist with highly artisanal pieces. Her Resort 2027 collection similarly explored denim, straight silhouettes and clothes intended to move between male and female wardrobes.
Sandals Ground Almost Everything
Perhaps the quietest but most important menswear detail is the footwear.
Again and again, substantial flat sandals replace formal shoes.
They appear beneath suits, wide trousers, denim and shorts. That choice changes the entire attitude of the clothes. A cream suit worn with leather shoes could become formal eveningwear; worn open over the chest with flat sandals and fur, it suddenly feels decadent, Mediterranean and distinctly Roman.
It’s luxury without ceremony.
Black, Ivory, Camel and Animal Texture
The menswear palette shown here remains controlled: black, ivory, cream, camel, brown and faded blue denimdominate.
Rather than relying heavily on color, Chiuri creates contrast through surface.
Sequins catch the reflective runway lighting. Sheer fabrics reveal skin. Openwork textiles create ventilation and transparency. Fur supplies density. Denim introduces roughness. Fluid tailoring brings movement.
The reflective runway amplifies all of this, turning relatively restrained clothing into something considerably more atmospheric.
A New Masculinity at Fendi
What’s interesting about Chiuri’s Spring 2027 menswear is that it doesn’t announce gender fluidity through theatrical gestures. Instead, she quietly removes some of the rules that have traditionally separated men’s and women’s wardrobes.
A man can wear fur over an open shirt.
He can wear sequins with long shorts.
A sheer tank can sit beneath a traditional black coat.
An ivory suit can be worn almost shirtless.
A camel coat and fur can accompany faded jeans and sandals.
Corriere della Sera’s coverage characterizes the broader co-ed collection around the idea of freedom and the absence of gender hierarchies, which is particularly visible when isolating these men’s looks.
And importantly, the result still looks recognizably Fendi.
The Roman decadence remains. The fur remains. The impeccable outerwear remains. The sensuality remains.
What has changed is the attitude of the man wearing it.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri proposes a Fendi man who can be elegant without being rigid, masculine without being constrained by traditional menswear, and sensual without turning that sensuality into spectacle.
It is a wardrobe where a fur jacket, washed jeans, sequins, an ivory suit and a barely buttoned shirt can comfortably inhabit the same world.
And judging from these looks, that world suits Fendi remarkably well.
