For Spring/Summer 2027 in Milan, Marni finds creative energy in what already exists. Under Creative Director Meryll Rogge, the menswear proposes a wardrobe built through unexpected combinations, deliberately unsettled proportions and the kind of eccentric styling that makes the familiar suddenly feel strange again.
The collection is playful, but not frivolous. Looking across the menswear looks, there is an intriguing tension between the conventional and the offbeat: tailoring with shorts, cropped trousers with tall boots, neat cardigans against glossy leather, decorative knits over straightforward shirts, and flashes of vivid color interrupting an otherwise earthy wardrobe.
A Wardrobe Reassembled
There is something almost archaeological about the way these clothes have been put together. Instead of presenting a single, polished silhouette, Rogge seems interested in taking recognizable pieces of menswear apart and finding new relationships between them.
Traditional blazers appear throughout, but their formality is repeatedly disrupted. One is paired with loose plum trousers and open sandals; another oversized gray jacket sits above rust-colored shorts, white knee-length layers and tall black boots. Elsewhere, a pale tailored jacket meets brown shorts, striped socks and sandals.
These aren’t conventional proposals for summer dressing, and that’s precisely where the collection becomes interesting. Marni treats the established codes of the male wardrobe as raw material rather than rules.
Leather contributes another texture to the experiment. Dark, slightly glossy trousers are worn with a patterned green shirt and brown cardigan, while chocolate leather trousers accompany a light utilitarian jacket. The result feels simultaneously vintage and contemporary—as though pieces collected across several decades have been brought together without attempting to disguise their different origins.
Knitwear Takes Center Stage
Knitwear is particularly strong.
Fine striped sweaters, sweater vests, cardigans and intricately patterned pieces repeatedly become focal points. A gray-and-black striped knit is paired with loose black trousers; another striped sweater accompanies elongated denim. One of the most decorative looks combines a dark floral cardigan with a peach-toned shirt and brown trousers.
Rather than relying on obvious summer minimalism, Marni layers.
Shirts sit underneath vests. Knits appear beneath jackets. Scarves, ties and necklaces introduce still another visual plane. Even lightweight pieces feel intentionally accumulated.
The styling creates characters rather than simply outfits.
Shorts, Cropped Pants and Exposed Legs
One of the clearest menswear ideas in the collection is the manipulation of trouser length.
Shorts appear underneath tailoring, while trousers are cropped, rolled or shortened to expose socks, boots and sandals. In other looks, the trousers become deliberately generous and pool toward the footwear.
The contrast gives the collection its unusual rhythm.
A cream double-breasted jacket is worn with tailored shorts, red-and-gray socks and sandals. Another model wears a blazer over a graphic shirt with pale striped shorts and bright accessories. A technical jacket is paired with shorts, leggings and red sandals.
These combinations make the leg almost another layering device.
And then there are the full-length trousers: broad, relaxed and occasionally slightly awkward by conventional tailoring standards. That awkwardness feels purposeful. Marni isn’t chasing the perfectly elongated male silhouette.
Color Without Restraint
The palette initially appears subdued—brown, tobacco, gray, cream, plum, charcoal and faded green—but Rogge continually breaks through it with concentrated jolts of color.
Acid green appears at collars and footwear. Orange sandals punctuate white tailoring. Red shoes sit beneath muted trousers. A vivid orange sweater is placed under a weathered brown jacket and paired with lavender-gray pants.
The opening look establishes the strategy immediately: a brilliant red outer layer over dark separates, finished with tall brown boots.
Instead of organizing outfits around perfectly coordinated color stories, Marni uses color almost like punctuation.
It makes you look twice.
The Sandal Becomes a Marni Signature
Footwear plays an unusually important role throughout the menswear.
Open-toed sandals appear with tailoring, leather pants, shorts and relaxed trousers, often in deliberately conspicuous shades of red, orange or green. Elsewhere, tall boots stretch toward the knee, exaggerating the contrast between bare or partially exposed legs and substantial footwear.
It’s another example of the collection refusing the expected hierarchy of an outfit. Shoes aren’t the finishing detail here; they’re part of the argument.
Accessories follow the same logic. Soft bags, patterned totes, necklaces and scarves add another layer of individuality without turning the collection into an accessories showcase.
The Set: Building Something New From What Remains
The philosophy behind the clothes extends directly into the environment surrounding them.
For Marni’s Spring/Summer 2027 show, Creative Director Meryll Rogge collaborated with design studio Formafantasma on a set that continues the material and spatial approach established during the previous season.
Rather than constructing an entirely new environment, the wooden scenography created for Fall/Winter 2026 was taken apart, cut into, hollowed out and reassembled into a different configuration.
Fragments of the earlier set remain visible alongside its supporting infrastructure and the raw walls of the building, themselves carrying marks of previous interventions. Even the ceiling was opened to allow daylight into the space.
The accumulated surfaces create something resembling an archaeological record.
Last season’s environment transformed fragments of everyday life into constructed dioramas. Spring/Summer 2027 begins instead with what remains after that world has been disturbed. Things previously assembled are dismantled; covered structures become visible again; existing materials acquire different functions.
It is an especially appropriate setting for Rogge’s menswear.
Both clothes and environment are concerned with continuity through transformation. Nothing necessarily needs to disappear for something new to emerge. A blazer, cardigan, tie, pair of leather trousers or piece of wood can simply be reconsidered, repositioned and given another context.
Marni’s New Masculinity
Perhaps the most appealing aspect of Spring 2027 is how little interest Marni shows in defining masculinity through one silhouette.
There are slim jackets and oversized ones. Short shorts and sweeping trousers. Utilitarian outerwear and decorative cardigans. Leather, tailoring, colorful knitwear and exposed legs all coexist.
Even familiar menswear archetypes—the businessman, student, traveler, eccentric intellectual, athlete—seem to appear briefly before the styling scrambles their identities again.
That makes this collection feel less like a prescription for how men should dress and more like an invitation to experiment with what’s already inside the wardrobe.
Meryll Rogge’s Marni doesn’t need to demolish the past.
It cuts into it, exposes its construction and puts the pieces back together differently.
Creative Director: Meryll Rogge
Set Designer: Formafantasma
