As a result, Berluti’s spring collection was a design team effort, riffing off the brand’s signatures Sartori helped establish: the traveler blouson, featuring an inside back pocket, this time rendered in butter-soft lambskin; the jersey-knit polo; the denim field jacket; knitted blazers so thin they could pass for shirts, and a series of hybrids from the accessories department, such as a new skateboard trainer called Matteo.
What does it signify when you show your first five looks in darkness so inkily profound that all the audience can see is the barest underlit shadow of your brogue-trainers and bronze-capped, abstractly stitched formals? Answer: You are either atrociously, delusionally arrogant, or you are rather brilliant—and confident enough to know it. And perhaps you are the creative director of a brand rooted in shoes. Happily for the balance of critical karma, in this case the answer was the latter.
The models at Berluti tonight were lounging in the paved courtyard of the Musée Picasso, soaking up the last of the day’s sweltering rays in boxer shorts, socks, and shoes, the only outfit adapted to the Parisian weather. “What should one wear on a first date?” asked the day’s edition of the Berluti News. As you were, lads!