As Berluti marks its 130th anniversary, the iconic footwear brand is redefining quiet luxury with a focus on minimal chic. Known for its signature patinas, Berluti embraced a darker palette in its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, showcasing shoes in an impressive spectrum of 50 shades of black. The presentation, held in the historic drawing rooms of the Simone et Cino Del Duca Foundation, featured a live demonstration of the inky dye technique on a square of brown leather, emphasizing the brand’s artisanal craftsmanship.
By stripping color from its footwear, Berluti brought attention to the elegant shapes of its shoes. These included the classic Alessandro oxford — inspired by the original 1895 design displayed prominently in a glass case — as well as modern styles like the square-toed Mont Thabor and a softer version of the Stellar sneaker, first introduced by Kris Van Assche in 2019.
A curated portfolio at the event paid homage to the brand’s creative evolution, featuring runway looks from its three prominent ready-to-wear creative directors: Alessandro Sartori, who launched the category in 2012; Haider Ackermann, who left his mark with just three seasons; and Kris Van Assche, who served as creative director until 2021. Their bold use of color highlighted the understated elegance of this season’s collection, which revolves around the Forestière jacket. This timeless piece entered Berluti’s repertoire following parent company LVMH’s acquisition of bespoke tailor Arnys in 2012.
Originally designed in 1947 for architect Le Corbusier, the Forestière jacket is described by Berluti as “a cross between a hunting jacket and chore coat.” The design embodies versatility, transitioning seamlessly from day to evening wear. Double-faced cashmere versions offer a sophisticated look when layered under a biker jacket, while crimson suede and midnight blue velvet iterations bring a luxurious edge.
Adding a touch of modernity to the exhibit was South Korean singer and actor Lee Jun-ho, also known as Junho. Quietly touring the showcase before its official press day, his effortless style exemplified how Berluti’s heritage pieces integrate seamlessly into today’s more relaxed fashion landscape.
Berluti also introduced a new leather goods line for Fall/Winter 2025, with the roomy Périple shoulder bag taking center stage. Made from a softer version of the brand’s signature Venezia leather, the bag ensures comfort and style go hand in hand. With this collection, Berluti proves that even at 130 years old, the brand remains as innovative and stylish as ever.
