Yeah, baby. Pablo Coppola started getting his head into this collection when the present was particularly dark. He needed no further incentive to retreat into carefully crafted cultural nostalgia. It’s a loose reminiscence, a mixtape of past muses. “I was looking at that Peter Schlesinger book, Checkered Past, and I was imagining this gang of people, who right now you would consider all to be masters, but back in the day were up-and-coming, on the cusp, royals and dandies mixed with artists and rockers.
Much like pianist Nils Frahm whose music — a mix of classic and electronic influences — was playing, Cerruti 1881’s new chief creative officer Jason Basmajian set out to merge classic tailoring with technical fabrics.
Jean Touitou translated his interpretation of Britishness into a vision for his fall 2016 men’s collection. Taken literally, this could be seen in the use of a range of checks and a greater profusion of color than is usually his wont, especially red.
Sleeves zipped partially off the rumpled parkas and beefy shearlings and dangled freely, somewhat deflating the large volumes Boris Bidjan Saberi explored for fall.
Each season, there are apparently a dozen or so Issey Miyake collections that we, the press, don’t get to see. They distill the often-obtuse influences of the main line into palatable edits.
Voluptuous: A word seldom heard in men’s wear, but a trenchant summation for a mesmerizing fall collection from Rick Owens, who provided the descriptor backstage. Thanks, Rick!
A haunting and cinematic editorial by Christian Oita, The Exiled Prince follows Moroccan model and LGBTQ advocate Ossam Arad through a fictional yet deeply personal journey of exile, identity, and defiance in the Arab world.