“It’s kind of autobiographical,” Phillip Lim said about his spring lineup, calling it his “version of the new America.”
“I was playing with the idea of old blue-blood lineage, Ivy League athletic clubs and militia uniforms,” he explained backstage before the show, which turned into a spirited celebration of sporty chic.
Lim checked all the boxes of the season: slouchy silhouettes, sleeveless vests and utility jackets, hitting home the image of a new American dandy.
Handsomely oversized shirts replaced commonplace jackets for a new kind of suit. The designer also took to athletic double-breasted numbers, rendering them in traditional banker stripes. Pajama looks in silky materials felt luxurious and street-friendly at the same time, while multi-pocket utility outerwear got an update via botanical prints.
Throughout, the designer walked the line between cool and cordial with bravado, exemplified by his series of high-waist, boxy pants, featuring belts of the same fabric.