It looks as if designer Tomas Maier has truly forgone his understated elegance approach to fashion at Bottega Veneta. It’s a shift that started with his last menswear show, which looked inspired by off duty ballet dancers, and it continued with this fall/winter 2015 collection; a collection that pushed the brand even further into a more artistic direction, that is to say, clothing for men with with an artist’s soul.
This surprising show was all about nonchalant comfort and sophisticated color combinations. Where feeling at ease and relaxed was just as important as looking good.
Models walked the runway in loose, elastic waistband pants in cashmere flannel, cotton corduroy or knit. In some cases the full cuts were assisted by suspenders, giving the ensembles an added nostalgic charm. As for the tops, they too focused on the layers of roomy sweaters and touchy feely outerwear in luxe shearling, suede or more corduroy.
When Maier did offer up possible business suiting, it came in strokable wool cashmere flannels, wrinkled just so, as to round any possible edges. As if its owner had one good suit and loved to wear it day in and day out.
As for the introduction of lush colors onto a dark base pallet, here too Maier looked to be loosening up. With names like mallow pink, luteous yellow, byzantine purple and persimmon orange, these bright pieces elevated the collection with this unexpected infusion of poetic vibrancy.
This was a show that felt as if the garments had already found homes in the wardrobes of the wealthy and that each ensemble progressed into their current eclectic melange over years of enjoyable experimentation.
The collection was very much in keeping with what men are currently craving: clothing that transmits personality as well as style.