Juun.J Spring/Summer 2016 Paris

Every season, Juun J defines a focal point around which to revolve. In “Middy,” it was less about the denim that he announced than it was about exploring other thinning menisci: sportswear and tailoring; volumes and planes; gender bifurcation. The androgynous blond pixie cut pointed to the latter, and highlighted an evolution in his superlative masculine ideals.

There was a definite dialing up of his feminine side, more strongly than ever before. Blending brought to life a host of transformable hybrids such as trousers that unzip to reveal the bottom part of a jacket, hinting at being a jumpsuit or a canvas and denim mackintosh layered over a jacket. The color palette of black, denim, and white was dictated by the materials.

The lasting impression was that J. was returning to two-dimensional considerations. Lines were considered as opposed to cubes, leading to their distortion – be it through a zip left open to reveal a contrasting inner layer or as the melting stripes of a light knit sweater. Even on boxier jackets, the volume that has come to epitomize the Juun J glossary took a back burner to the idea of lengthening lines. Rid of their sleeve, this was more visible. Trousers fell straight from the hip, sometimes detailed like sailor pants, the leg pooling from the fabric weight, breaking at the instep. Furthering this idea, a coated denim blouson fell handsomely, and this visual effect continued on the trousers as a matching tuxedo stripe.

Ending the show were all white silhouettes, wide sleeveless vests and abbreviated shorts. They spoke of fluid confidence, a proto-Ziggy feeling escaping the need for labeling. White denim – usually a no-no, today a yes please. The new page of the Juun J story starts with this first line.

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