MILAN, JANUARY 16, 2016
The location of Corneliani’s Fall show was a far cry from the gilded, stuccoed, aristocratic salons of last season’s presentation. A catwalk of actual cobblestones, wet as if after a copious downpour, was framed by a backdrop depicting a nocturnal Milanese street. This set the tone for a collection with a moody, retro feel, in which the brand’s trademark classic style was infused with a touch of nostalgia.
The tailoring referenced ’40s proportions: Shoulders were slightly oversize; trousers were high-waisted and fluid in post-WW2 fashion. Yet the inspiration was handled lightly and was not literal, which was testament to the effort of keeping Corneliani firmly in the modern arena—even if its classic Italian tailoring pedigree was on full display. Impeccable execution and painstaking attention to detail were obviously paramount, as was the use of luxe textured fabrics, which gave substance to linear mid-length car coats, one of the collection’s highlights. Suiting was of the slim-cut variety, yet with a touch of soft, rounded ease; sporty elements conveyed the comfort factor for nylon parkas and trenches. The dark, retro palette added to the romantic atmosphere; it was interpreted in a contemporary, classy way.