Costume National Fall/Winter 2016 Milan

By Alessandra Turra

“The world is under pressure; designers are under pressure due to the unfair competition coming from fast fashion. My response is creativity,” said Ennio Capasa backstage before the show.


Despite his aim, the collection didn’t show a real creative spark. The designer delivered a range of his signature rock-’n’-roll-inspired silhouettes, sending out shrunken suits in bright tones and geometric patterns, as well as fluid silk shirts, biker jackets and leather pants with lace-up details.


Capasa’s research focused on material treatments, such as flocking and glitter printing on velvet, embellishments and 3-D embroideries. But they failed to inject an appealing twist to the collection, which missed the sharpness and strength of his previous efforts.

See also  John Todd // John Tan
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