Boris Bidjan Saberi fashion men's fashion Paris Fashion Week

Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear Spring/Summer 2020 Paris

The designer this season eschewed a runway display.

It’s been a soul-searching period for Boris Bidjan Saberi, who this season eschewed a runway show and presented his spring collection in a showroom. “I asked myself ‘Who am I?’ ‘What’s the next step?’” he explained. “’How does it go on?’”

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

The creative director no longer felt comfortable in the fashion system and considered stopping work as a designer altogether. But Bidjan Saberi considered that his own work is about developing something from scratch, and therefore about “creating culture.” So he wouldn’t leave the business.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

“My job is to blow your brain away,” he said, adding that’s with remarkable technique, fabrics, patterns — not marketing. “I have to do amazing garments…[it’s] back to where I started.”

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

On his mood board for spring was a punk theme, going back to his roots; a biomechanics theme, and the artist H.R. Giger. Bidjan Saberi also created a word “bioindementary,” which he considers the foundation of his new world.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

Its landscape this season includes numerous garments with taped seams. Bidjan Saberi seam-taped leather and “microcoated” it on the suede side, for instance. The result is a reversible jacket with one side having a technical look and the other like “a childish painted jacket.”

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

Bidjan Saberi developed a prototype summer bomber jacket made with cotton organza and puffed with Japanese filling material. Originally white, it was object-dyed gray.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

Bidjan Saberi, who perpetually experiments, oxidized a gabardine coat and showed a shirt with no seam created with cotton yarn knit on a 3-D machine.

Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

He called his fashion “slow food.” “And slow food, you cannot show fast,” said the designer.

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Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2020

To know more about Boris Bidjan Saberi #borisbidjansaberi.

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