Meeting at Paris 15ème Arrondissement for OAMC Menswear Fall/Winter 2020 in Paris.
Luke Meier considered the moment a consciousness awakens in sleek layered tailored silhouettes.
The moment where consciousness emerges was the starting point for OAMC’s fall collection, expressed in David Foster Wallace’s “This Is Water” 2005 commencement speech as an opening sound bite. Designer Luke Meier said the Lycée Camille Sée, a high school, was an apt location because “we liked that [it hinted that] this is maybe the beginning of a new consciousness for people,” he said after the show.
At a time where conflicting messages of hope and catastrophe dominate public discourse, the collection made an elegant case for the former. It entwined the ideas of strength and protection — “the push and pull of today: the strong need to be assertive but the onslaught of things coming at you all the time,” he said — expressed as subtly opposing pairs.
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Translated into clothes, it meant the rawness of a photograph by Daido Moriyama printed over the cushy protection offered by silk-cotton matelassé; fluid, flowing layers that played off elongated tailored silhouettes; whisper-thin layers that built up to functional, fully protective outfits, or even favoring natural materials over synthetic options, but giving them sophisticated coatings or taped seams.
While certainly skewing toward a more pared-back aesthetic, the impression the collection left was of a reality one certainly can live with.