Dunhill Men’s Fall 2023 London

Dunhill’s in-house team approached this season’s collection with a light touch, and a love of layering.

There’s a new generation of men who want it all — sleek silhouettes, performance fabrics — and soft, comfortable clothing. 

Dunhill’s in-house team rose to the challenge by shopping the brand’s archives and reworking classic styles. They yanked out the padding and complex construction to create a chic, multitasking wardrobe with a strong British accent. 

The designers approached it all with a light touch and a love of layering. Looks included a featherweight trench made from technical silk; an unlined wool jacket that fit as easily and snugly as a cardigan, and a lineup of fluid car coats in herringbone wool, gabardine twill or calfskin. 

A long herringbone military coat — traditionally a heavy garment — shed the pounds this season and looked better than ever. Made from a cashmere-wool blend with a pleat at the back, it was built to be worn alone or over multiple layers. 

The Dunhill team worked British menswear tradition into more casual fare, too, and kept the weight off. 

Down puffers were covered in a waterproof Prince of Wales check fabric, while slim workwear jackets were made from cashmere. Even the knitwear took its cues from old English fabrics: one crewneck sweater had a textured herringbone pattern at the front.

Dunhill didn’t stop there. It even took the heft out of Chelsea boots and lace-up shoes, adding a special, lightweight foam construction on the sole.

According to a spokesperson from the house, Dunhill is headed in a more refined direction and the plan is to accent the brand’s British DNA and make clothes that last. “We have a responsibility to create collections that are not only beautiful, but endure seasons and trends,” said the brand’s chief executive officer Laurent Malecaze.

Those plans should come into focus later this year when Dunhill appoints its new creative chief following the departure of Mark Weston last October. In the meantime, the team will be fusing tradition with the demands of the Dunhill client.

See also  "City of Gods" by Mario Testino for Vogue Hommes S/S 2017
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