Men’s Spring-Summer 2024 Show. Against a backdrop evocative of the radiant sun, Louis Vuitton Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams will present his first collection for the Maison at the illuminated Pont Neuf in Paris.
On nytimes.com Pharrell about its coming collection, he’s really into the checkerboard Damier print, but he’s putting a clever twist on it. He’s turning it into digital camo or what he calls “damouflage,” and he’s tweaking the colors to move away from the usual browns and grays.
He said, “Every season, it’s gonna have a different color scheme.” He’s drawing inspiration from Takashi Murakami’s vibrant neon monogram print from the Jacobs era, and he’s giving the soles of various shoes a modified Damier pattern. Oh, and he even set aside a couple of damoflage sweatsuits for his parents because, as he put it, “My dad’s a player.”
Remember Mr. Williams, the guy who caused a stir in 2007 with his massive purple crocodile Hermès Haut à courroies bag? Well, he’s most excited about putting his own spin on the Speedy bag. He’s giving it a makeover in different primary colors and making it ridiculously oversized. There was a buttery soft yellow Speedy on the pool table in his makeshift studio, and it looked like it was melting under its own feather-light weight.
Mr. Williams said, “I want to give you that same feeling you get when you visit Canal Street, a place that’s been copying the house’s style for ages, you know?” But here’s the twist—he wants to flip the script. He’s taking inspiration from those knockoffs and creating colorways that the house has never explored. And the best part? He’s crafting them with the finest quality leather you can find.
This show was all about pure entertainment, lacking any real fashion essence. It’s exactly what the higher-ups expected from Williams, but the clothing just didn’t have the strength to push this vision forward. And let’s not even get started on the accessories or the Canal St. reference. The show itself felt more like a massive launch for a limited collaboration. If they’re serious about Williams working for LV, they really need to prioritize the actual look and quality of the clothes. After all, it’s the customers who are getting the products, not just the show’s vibes.
“In my opinion this was a very smart debut, there is plenty of items that will sell well, and the show was a well balanced mix of fashion and entertainment. It was fun, and this is what fashion is missing nowadays. A well played power game as you would expect from LV.”
FM
Williams is aware that not everyone is thrilled with his appointment, which cements Vuitton’s positioning as a “cultural” brand with broad reach across segments including sports, gaming, music and art.
Some commentators were disappointed that the job didn’t go to one of the young designers rumored to be in the running, even though his predecessor Virgil Abloh also came from a non-fashion background, redefining the role of creative director into something closer to a curator.
“I didn’t go to Central Saint Martins, but I also didn’t go to Juilliard either in music and I mean, we see how that turned out,” said the performer, who has won 13 Grammy Awards. “It’s cool. That’s a very fair observation. But neither did Vivienne Westwood, right? Tadao Ando was self-taught. I mean, he’s the GOAT, right? I only aspire to express myself.”
As unexpected as the offer was, “it feels natural,” he continued.
Williams was introduced to Louis Vuitton through rappers and Harlem tailor Dapper Dan’s bootleg logo designs, but back then, the actual brand felt way out of his league.
These days, he’s firmly entrenched in the luxury world, notably through his friendship with Japanese designer Nigo, who helped him launch the streetwear labels Billionaire Boys Club and Icecream, and is now creative director at Kenzo, a brand also owned by luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
Nigo helped him design the Millionaire sunglasses for Vuitton, and subsequently created several capsule collections with Abloh for Vuitton.
It promises to be a spectacular event in every respect, and one that will go down in the annals of fashion. Williams confirmed that the front row of his show would be stacked with celebrity friends. “It’s like ‘Game of Thrones,’ House Vuitton. It’s very important. It’s just such a momentous occasion,” he said.
Expect exclusive music on the soundtrack. “One [track] that I’ve been working on for, like, 10 years,” teased Williams, who has set up a mini studio in his office at Vuitton. “I’m getting into it. I want you to see it. I want you to feel it.”
He was confident ahead of his big night, buoyed by the support of his design studio and Vuitton’s master artisans. “When you add creativity to the highest arc of quality, you get this amazing alchemical reaction, which is a crazy collection, a crazy show, crazy energy and crazy messaging,” he promised.
Watch the show live on Tuesday, June 20th at 9:30pm CEST on Instagram or at louisvuitton.com
