The men’s Spring Summer 2024 collection by Paul Smith, presented at Paris Fashion Week, is a journey through the archive in a story titled “The Suit (but different).”
This collection reimagines formal wear with a playful approach because, as Paul Smith himself explains after the show, tailoring is often seen as a very serious environment, but in reality, there is plenty of room for fun.
For the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Paul Smith wants to infuse a sense of casual coolness into formal items like suits, long coats, and outerwear. But he wants to add a new dimension and fun by playing around with Brush Stroke patterns.
“Rabbits have become one of my favourite treasures. Every season, before the show, I’m lucky enough to receive a rabbit from my wife as a good luck charm. This tiny little green fella is carved from jade and he seems very spritely.”
Paul Smith
With this intention, the English designer revisits his Nottingham archive and introduces a series of variations on the theme. He puts jackets on striped boxer shorts, redesigns the suit to create the Breakfast Suit with work jackets, and combines the Canadian Smoking with Canadian plaid shirts.
Boldly mixing things up, Smith engages in a dialogue between traditional codes of men’s clothing (from pinstripes to three-piece suits) and surprising elements like jackets with prints dedicated to Pablo Picasso, for whom Paul Smith curated an exhibition at a Parisian museum.
Paul Smith has such a great sense of humor.
He says, with that mischievous twinkle in his eye, that he wanted to showcase a man who had to rush out in the morning, you know, a bit “on a hurry,” feeling pressed for time! And he creates this look that encompasses the quintessential English understatement. It captures the office life, the mandatory suit, the casual atmosphere, the liberties to be taken, the clever digestion of conventions, and the cool composure. It’s like being in a trance at the office.
Paul Smith’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is all about effortless style combined with a touch of mischief.
This time, the male English gentleman’s trademark isn’t just about being impeccably dressed; it’s about pairing the brand’s sleek jackets with relaxed trousers. They look too good to be kept hidden underneath. There’s also the Pajama look, which doesn’t care if it’s a passing trend or not, because it’s all about confidence.
In this season, the focus isn’t on bags; it’s solely on the clothes themselves. They’re made with various special materials, emphasizing lightness and fluidity. The color palette is stunning, with vibrant red as the standout color and shades of blue that transition to lavender. It’s a blend that’s not overly coordinated or matchy-matchy, but perfectly balanced.
Director @pietervloon
Designer @paulsmith
