Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Fall 2024 Paris
For the autumn of 2024, an extraordinary performance took place featuring SunBengSitting x Sons of Sissy. This Vienna-based folk dance trio, comprised of Simon Mayer, Matteo Haitzmann, and Simon Wehrli, delivered a mesmerizing show, incorporating elements such as spinning, whipping, dancing, singing, and yodeling. The performance also included wood chopping and percussive elements.
It was challenging to determine where to direct my attention. Throughout the performance, models presented designs featuring strap-ons inspired by codpieces worn over trousers, as well as ensembles adorned with prominent breast plate details.
Backstage, Kronthaler stated that he drew inspiration from late Renaissance costume featured in a Giovanni Battista Moroni exhibition in Milan, as well as sports protection gear. He highlighted the commonality between the two: codpieces, a fashion staple that was popular for over a century during the Renaissance in Italy. The designer expressed his intention to reintroduce this fashion element for amusement and to showcase it anew.
“The menswear during the Renaissance era was intriguing. There were strict regulations regarding modesty in attire. In Florence, individuals could face imprisonment for flaunting excessively revealing clothing,” Kronthaler explained.
He pointed out that the Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold was a crucial source of reference for creating historically inspired pieces showcased in this collection, as well as in previous ones.
The incorporation of black, particularly in the evening wear category, also paid homage to the fashion trend of the 1600s.
“You observe a prevalence of black due to its enduring fashionability. This color is adored for its convenience and is also considered the most elegant of all.”
Essentially, the collection contested the concept of elegance in contemporary culture. While some may argue that Sam Smith‘s bottomless check look exuded pure chaos, fans of Vivienne Westwood believe that elegance emanates from within, and Smith possesses an abundance of it.
[…] Vivienne Westwood delves into the Napoleonic influence with a focus on military uniforms, full sleeves, high collars, drapery, and gilt metal frames. […]