If one observed certain rave elements on the men’s runways for spring 2026, it is likely that one can attribute these influences to the remarkable Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection from spring 2018, which introduced sequin-adorned Bermudas and tropical prints elegantly integrated into more understated garments.
The future implications of Rei Kawakubo’s latest work, which serves as a contemplation on tailoring, notably dense and lengthy black hair, and unconventional, multi-brimmed newsboy caps, are more challenging to ascertain.
“Not suits, but suits” was her motto this season, with the corollary: “I had the feeling that we would really need to get someone powerful like a shaman to come to us to lead us to peace, love and fraternity.”
Settling in for her show Friday night in an airless, sweltering, tightly packed concrete venue, less lofty thoughts occurred like: “We could really use some air conditioning.”
Once the models commenced their procession along the narrow plywood runway, one had to set aside any feelings of discomfort and direct one’s focus accordingly, as optical patterns concealed the contours she had meticulously incorporated into her jackets, vests, and coats — most notably around the hips, but intermittently also on the sleeves or in areas where canvas chest pieces typically guarantee a smooth surface.
Pants were uniformly skinny, but started accruing zippered openings, which burst forth with ruffles, some stiff, some fluttery.
The banded structures that Kawakubo consistently utilizes in her women’s collections to create rounded volumes are revisited here, accompanied by godets, which impart a tailcoat appearance to numerous tailored toppers. Additionally, the zippered trousers and skirt-like shorts have been previously observed.
Newer concepts featured demonstrative, padded lapels on jackets, utilizing contrasting fabrics and hues. These elements appeared most remarkable in white when paired with cropped black tuxedo jackets, a design that had also garnered attention earlier in the day at the Dior show.
File the latter one under suits, and Kawakubo’s under “not suits.”
