Haute Couture

One might argue that Maison Kitsuné was playing it safe for spring. Presenting Mens Collection Spring/Summer 2017.

Guests were handed ice packs to cope with the sweltering heat at the Issey Miyake Men’s show, held in the courtyard of the Université Pierre et Marie Curie. Though uncomfortable, the modern venue, with its multilevel stairs, provided the perfect backdrop for Yusuke Takahashi’s cool crinkled suits.

Junichi Abe is doing a good job at constructing a relevant wardrobe based on laid-back silhouettes and — with the exception of a pop of fuchsia for spring — subdued colors. Tailored, yes, but essentially very athletic.

It’s official. Fashion’s obsession for Spring is travel—synonyms, indeed, are fast running out to describe the nomadic, itinerant, roving eye of designers. There’s three out of action, right there. That idea of incessant movement isn’t just a source of inspiration to Kim Jones—it’s a way of life. He is a man gripped with wanderlust, a man who has traveled to Japan alone over 70 times in the past decade, and plenty of places besides.

Never shy of going against the grain, Walter Van Beirendonck veered away from sportswear — a prevalent category on men’s catwalks for spring 2017 — with a highly sartorial collection. That’s not to say the Belgian maverick abandoned his traditional riot of hues, patterns and textures, but it didn’t obscure his masterful skill for fine tailoring.

OAMC presents french menswear Collection Spring/Summer 2017 Paris