Masculine

Stephanie Hahn understands a good suit. Handmade in Germany, the pieces she puts out ooze chic, but remain playful, signaling the youthful character that is needed to stay relevant and fresh amid more established brands.

Following a stint as Pitti Uomo’s guest designer, Juun.J was back in Paris with a dynamic collection that captured the cool street kids’ hunger for off-kilter silhouettes and an underground feeling.

Plain surfaces are overrated, Junya Watanabe seemed to say with his spring men’s collection, shown in a concrete parking garage plastered with colorful graffiti and worn by a cast of heavily tattooed models, to which the designer added more ink on limbs, faces and necks.

Partnership was the name of the game for The Kooples for spring. The Parisian label, which hosted a presentation during Paris Men’s Fashion Week for the first time, is expanding its conceptual universe from (ad)dressing couples to celebrating duality in a broader sense — via siblings, business partners and the like.

This was a mellow spring offering by Maison Margiela, and not just because models were strolling to the soothing tunes of “Last Year’s Man,” delivered by Leonard Cohen.

With an appealing mix of streetwear and ethnic references, Istanbul-based Bunyamin Aydin traveled to the Sahara for spring, incorporating Tuareg and North African designs and inspirations into his collection, for which he staged a Paris presentation for the first time