stylish

With the Nineties trending in Paris, obvious references to the period can be a temptation. Stephanie Hahn steered clear of them, producing an athletic collection with a deluxe feel that harked back to the ravers of Manchester’s famous nightclub, The Haçienda, mixed with English huntsmen dressing.

In the supersize sweepstakes this fall men’s season has become, Jonathan Anderson has surely secured the prize for the biggest backpack. The scale of a bar fridge, it sags under the weight of the Army green calf leather.

Sébastien Meunier came over all touchy-feely with his fall collection for Ann Demeulemeester, which he described as an ode to a modern-day Adonis. Textural effects abounded as the designer used materials including mohair, fil coupé and an alpaca-silk blend to create deep-pile effects on glossy coats, jackets and pants.

Nothing evokes the Nineties more than a pair of super-tight cycling shorts styled with a nylon bomber or an elongated knitted sweater.

Junya Watanabe’s strength is in the relentless reiteration of a single notion or motif, stuttering through synonyms for a particular term in fashion’s vocabulary. It’s an idea he often turns to in his shows—taking an archetypal item or technique, and then exhausting it.

Maison Kitsuné designers Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki called on Japanimation for their fall 2016 “Love Rises” men’s collection, interpreting it in their own singular, irreverent way. Referencing Hayao Miyazaki’s animated movie “The Wind Rises,” they mixed militaria with kawai, emblazoning World War II fighter planes, images of Mount Fuji and a crimson rising sun across much of the collection via print, jacquard and embroidered motifs.