men's fashion Milan Fashion Week Tom Ford

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2020 Milan

His latest collection had a tougher edge, and while it was still luxe, there was something a little dangerous about Ford’s man for spring.

Tom Ford is ringing in the spring season with lots of leather and a new — brighter — mood for evening. His latest collection had a tougher edge, and while it was still luxe, there was something a little dangerous about this man, compared with previous seasons.

Maybe it was all the motorcycle club-like black leather, which came in the form of collar details and tabs on tailored coats, a peacoat with distressed buttons, a jacket layered over a tough-guy tank top, and tracksuit bottoms. Ford’s leather palette also took in mint, faded yellow and ivory for jean-style jackets and perforated trousers, and white for lightweight, supple shirts and jackets.

Eveningwear didn’t have that dark edge. In fact, it went in the opposite direction, with a glorious lineup of electric-bright silk jacquards for dinner jackets, all worn with collarless shirts. Dazzling patterns included hot pink or bright green leopard, and wave patterns in deep purple and black.

Ford also dialed down the ties in formal wear — it’s the rare man who wears those anymore, even on Ford turf — and swapped his famous peak lapels for notched ones. When ties did appear, they were slimmer with the Eighties accessory that few will forget — the tiebar.

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